The gondola from Kandersteg rises slowly and then the valley opens up: white slopes on both sides, pine trees heavy with snow, peaks pushing into the sky above. By the time you step off at Sunnbüel you already feel far from the city, even though you took the train from Bern and a bus from the station. I came up here on a December morning with my partner and her family to try the Spittelmatten snowshoe trail for the first time, and it turned out to be one of the best winter days I have spent in the Bernese Oberland.
The view from the gondola station at Sunnbüel. Shot on Ektar H35.
The trail
The Spittelmatten trail is 5 km with around 260 metres of elevation gain, most of it saved for the final climb back to the cable car. Plan for 2.5 to 3 hours. The route passes through open valley, a forest, past a long cliff face, and loops back. It is marked throughout with purple poles and suits complete beginners, although you should be in reasonable shape for the ascent at the end.
The trail opens with a gentle descent from the cable car station. The snowshoe route takes a more off-piste line than the winter hiking path, cutting through light slopes and small hills instead of going around them. This is where the valley starts to open up, peaks rising on both sides, cross-country tracks snaking across the flat to your left. Walking down into it, I felt that particular kind of quiet you only get in deep snow.
The valley opens up on the descent from the gondola station.
Into the forest
The trail flattens as it crosses the valley floor, then enters a small forest. The pines were loaded with snow, branches bent almost to the path. The trail snakes through with sharp turns and sudden little climbs, and this is where snowshoes start to feel genuinely impressive: grip on every surface, no slipping, the kind of confidence underfoot you do not expect. The forest opens into a clearing with a few large rocks — a sheltered spot, out of the wind but with the peaks still visible. We stopped here for lunch.
This is where snowshoes start to feel genuinely impressive: grip on every surface, the kind of confidence underfoot you do not expect.
Inside the forest section. Pine branches loaded with snow.
The cliff face and the climb back
We turned left out of the forest and crossed back over the valley floor, past all the cross-country trails, until we reached the opposite cliff face. Two people were ice climbing on a frozen waterfall there, one working up the ice, the other on the ropes below. Worth stopping to watch for a few minutes. From here the trail turns and begins the climb back up toward the cable car station: the steepest section of the day, short but rewarding. At the top, the restaurant at the cable car station does fries, apple cake, beer and hot chocolate. We had all four.
Ice climbers on the frozen waterfall at the far end of the valley.
Gear used on this trail
Tubbs Flex VRT 25 Snowshoe
The snowshoes available to rent at the gondola station happen to be the Tubbs Flex VRT 25, a model I had been wanting to try. The standout feature is the BOA binding system: instead of straps, you tighten by turning a dial, which clicks tight in seconds and distributes tension evenly across your boot. It is the best binding system I have used on a snowshoe.
The shoe itself is light and the traction is solid throughout. The heel lift is worth mentioning: on steeper climbs it reduces the strain on your ankle by keeping your foot at a more natural angle and improving grip at the same time. For a shoe you can try here for CHF 15 to 20, the value is hard to argue with.
More gear reviews →What to wear and bring
One thing worth knowing before you go: snowshoes float on top of packed snow, but you will occasionally punch through with one foot. It is called post-holing and it is not a problem — just pull your foot out and keep walking. It does mean your boots will get wet if they are not waterproof, so wear winter boots with water-resistant uppers. Beyond that, dress as you would for a moderately active hike in cold weather. A ski jacket is usually too warm once you are moving. I wore a t-shirt, a fleece and hiking trousers at 6 degrees in sun and was comfortable throughout. Bring a warmer layer for breaks, especially if it is cloudy.
The restaurant at the top is good, but I would recommend bringing lunch and eating it on the trail. The clearing in the forest is a natural stop, and if you continue past the forest exit you will find a few simple open shelters with benches. There are no toilets beyond the cable car station, so plan accordingly before you set off.
Practical information
This article contains no affiliate links. The snowshoes were rented on the day. All opinions are my own.